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The owner of the inn and I were looking at the rice terraces of Banaue,
marveling at the magnificent farming work done by the Ifugaos,
hundreds of years ago. Then she started her lamentations. "In the
80s, visitors used to come to Banaue by the busloads but I
guess Banaue is not as exciting as the other places in the Philippines
today." She noted that almost six months of the year during the rainy
season, hardly any tourists come by. In fact in her inn, there were times
when she had no guests at all.
The sparse number of visitors in the main area of Banaue was very
noticeable. Foreign visitors trek the central district, basically a one
street swath, in twos or threes. Some do it alone. The main avenue where
stalls sell Ifugao woodcraft and local woven fabrics was almost deserted,
save for a couple of foreign and local tourists. For an awe–inspiring
place where every panoramic view appears to be grander than the last one,
few seem to get interested to check the place.
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 Obviously, everyone will be taken away with the big open space of greenery all over. The infinite number of stairway steps of the rice terraces still holds magic to the visitors.
But to the thrill seeking, adventure loving individual, Banaue might not be for him. It is the introspective individual that will cherish more the stillness and simplicity of the place. It is where every step of the trek to Hapao or to Batad where the Tappiya Falls is, can be synonymous to chanting a prayer. It is where a cup of red rice becomes not only just a part of a nutritious meal, but a chance to imbibe the spirit of rice farmers asking the male god Bulul to shower them with bountiful blessings.
It is when alone that one can easily acknowledge how adept the people of Banaue are in using their hands. Hardly no one sees them watching television nor just taking respite from work during the day. They toil in their farms. They carve wood. They do embroidery. Then they sleep early. And no one should disturb the peace during the evening – not even karaoke bars nor a folk house where foreign guests gather. Only the noise of barking dogs and roars of the tricycle can pierce the silence of the night.
The guests should retire to their places as early as 9 pm. It is best to curl up with a book, or perhaps more soul-searching.
Maybe the innkeeper still longs for a crowded Banaue. But its serenity is exactly what makes the place special. This is where one gets away from the hustle and bustle of city-dwelling. Here is where one can have some inner quiet and peace. This is a place for people who want solitude. In this place, one can directly commune with God and nature. Banaue is indeed a place for meditation.
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Location: 340 kilometers north of Metro Manila, part of Ifugao province
Land area: 21,087 hectares, mountainous and hilly
Temperature: 20C from April to September, drops further to 16C from November to January
Name Source: "Bannawar" = a fast flying bird and now endangered species living in one of the sitios in Banaue.
Population: 20,000 (NSO Survey, 2000)
Languages: Ifugao, English, Ilocano, and Tagalog
Total agriculture land: 3700 hectares, with 1000 hectares used for rice
Famous for: Rice Terraces, viewpoint 1, 2, and 3 erected by tourism officials. Also at Hapao, Batad, and Mayayao.
Other sites: Banaue Museum, Tam-An Village, and Sagada, known for its caves is only 2 1/2 hours away
Hotels: Banaue Hotel, Native Village Inn at Uhaj (hotel units similar to Ifugao traditional hut.)
Article photos by Mike Dolar |
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